Alaska’s Tatshenshini River Takes You Back in Time

If you have never seen the raw power of geologic forces at work, a trip down Alaska’s Tatshenshini/Alsek Rivers will peel back the coverings of time, trees, and overgrown brush that mask natural history in many parts of the world. The Tatshenshini flows through 12 million acres of wilderness in Alaska, British Columbia and the Yukon. In this magical place the sometimes-unnoticed agents of geological change jump up and demand attention. Those who ride this magnificent river down its 140-mile journey to the sea are taken back in time and given a peek into Mother Nature’s workshop. They see her master carvers at work, glaciers gouging out new valleys, and streams flowing from those glaciers moving massive loads of sediment toward the ocean.

The St. Elias Mt. Range has the largest non-polar ice cap in the world, and the Tatshenshini winds through the heart of this mass of rock and ice. Rafters not only get to float by glaciers that are more than two miles across, they get to walk on the ancient ice of Walker Glacier. While peering into the crevasses and exploring the expanses of ice, the faraway theories of geology are brought to life before the eyes and under the feet of those lucky enough to be there. Tucked away on this creeping river of ice are smaller worlds. Flowing across ice so blue it appears unreal, tiny streams cut valleys and canyons, creating miniature river systems in a fairytale world.

There are other agents at work on this young land. The Tatshenshini itself, drawing its water from the miles of ice in the surrounding mountains, is a river of tremendous power. With an average summer flow of 100,000 cubic feet/second, the Tatshenshini is three to four times the volume of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. Channels are continually shifting changing, and the water moves with such force that rafters can hear the rumbling of rocks being propelled along beneath them.

This giant of a river pauses to catch its breath when it enters Alsek Lake, but rafters have their breath taken away by the views. Here the river drops much of its gray sediment as it mixes with the blue glacial water of the lake. Keeping a safe distance, the rafts weave through icebergs the size of apartment buildings. The glaciers that spawned the bergs lead the eye above the clouds to the white peak of Mt. Fairweather, 15,000 higher than the awestruck boaters. The river seems to want to linger in the lake, just as boaters do, and wonder at the beauty of this place. At night the moans and crashes of icebergs rolling and new ones being calved enchant campers gathered around the fire.

Amid the rock, ice, and turbulent water, there is a softer side to the Tatshenshini. The moist climate and long summer days produce wildflowers of striking size and vibrancy. A brilliant clump of Indian paintbrush provides a wonderful contrast to the glacier looming behind it. Alder, spruce, and willows cover much of the lower ground, but this dense forest gives way to heather and alpine meadows in the higher elevations. Grizzly bears, moose, wolves, mountain goats, and many other creatures roam this untamed land. Sharp-eyed boaters can often catch a glimpse of them along the shore, or high above in open meadow.

>From beginning to end the Tatshenshini never ceases to amaze and delight those who travel down it, and with just one group allowed to take out each day, only a lucky few get to experience its grandeur. Wilderness River Outfitters specializes in small groups and offers two trips; one on the Tatshenshini/Alsek Rivers and one on the upper Alsek. Trip dates are July 12-23 and July 30- August 9. Space is limited and reservations may be secured by calling 1(800)-252-6581 or emailing wro@wildernessriver.com. More information may be seen at www.wildernessriver.com/tatshenshini.htm.

About Author
Fran Tonsmeire
Wilderness River Outfitters
USA

Category: Travel